Dhokla Chronicles: A Culinary Journey Through Gujarati and Memon Culture

I have always been fascinated by the rich and diverse cuisine of Gujarat, a state in western India that is known for its vegetarian delicacies, sweet and sour flavors, and mouth-watering snacks. One of the most popular Gujarati dishes that I had heard of but never tried was dhokla, a steamed cake made from fermented batter of rice and chickpeas, garnished with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and coconut. Dhokla is usually served with green chutney and fried green chilies and can be eaten as a breakfast, a snack, or a side dish.

I had the opportunity to taste this amazing dish when I visited Karachi, the largest city and the economic hub of Pakistan, for a business trip. Karachi is home to a large number of Memons, a Muslim community that traces its origin to the Lohanas, a Hindu trading group from Sindh, who converted to Islam in the 15th century Memons are divided into different subgroups based on their regions of origin, such as Kathiawari Memons, Kutchi Memons, Bantva Memons, and Sindhi Memons. They speak the Memoni language, which shares vocabulary with Sindhi, Kutchi, and Gujarati languages.

Memons are known for their entrepreneurial spirit, their philanthropic activities, and their frugal lifestyle. They have a strong sense of community and identity and have established several organizations to promote their culture, education, and welfare, such as the World Memon Organisation (WMO) and the International Memon Organisation (IMO). They also have a distinctive cuisine, which is influenced by the regions they migrated from and settled in, as well as by the local ingredients and spices available.

One of my colleagues in Karachi, who is a Kutchi Memon, invited me to his house for dinner. He told me that his wife would prepare some traditional Memoni dishes for me and that I would also get to learn about their history and culture. I was very excited and curious to experience this unique opportunity.

When I arrived at his house, I was greeted by his wife and daughter, who were wearing colorful dresses and jewelry. They welcomed me warmly and led me to the dining room, where a feast was waiting for me. There were several dishes on the table, each one looking more appetizing than the other. I saw biryani, a rice dish with meat and spices, korma, a curry with yogurt and nuts, kebabs, grilled meat skewers, and roti, a flatbread. But what caught my eye was a plate of yellow, fluffy, and spongy cakes, topped with green and white sprinkles. They looked like dhokla, but I was not sure.

My colleague noticed my interest and said, “These are dhokla, a Gujarati snack that we Memons love. We make them with chickpea flour and yogurt and season them with mustard seeds, curry leaves, coconut, and green chilies. They are very light and healthy and go well with mint chutney. You should try them, they are delicious.”

I took a piece of dhokla and dipped it in the chutney. I took a bite and was amazed by the taste and texture. It was soft and moist, with a tangy and savory flavor. The mustard seeds added a crunch and a kick, while the coconut and the chutney balanced the spiciness. It was unlike anything I had ever eaten before. I loved it so much that I had several more pieces, and even asked for the recipe.

As I enjoyed the dhokla and the other dishes, my colleague and his family told me about their Memon heritage and culture. They told me how their ancestors migrated from Gujarat to Karachi during the Partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, and how they faced many challenges and hardships to rebuild their lives and businesses. They told me how they preserved their traditions and values, while also adapting to the new environment and society. They told me how they contributed to the development and welfare of Karachi and Pakistan, through their trade, industry, education, and charity. They told me how they celebrated their festivals and occasions, such as Eid, weddings, and birthdays, with joy and simplicity. They told me how they maintained their ties and networks with other Memons around the world, through their organizations and events.

I was very impressed and inspired by their stories and their spirit. I felt a connection and respect for them, even though we came from different backgrounds and countries. I realized that food is not just a way of nourishing our bodies, but also a way of expressing our identities, sharing our cultures, and bridging our differences. I thanked them for their hospitality and their generosity, and for introducing me to the delicious dhokla and the diverse Memon culture. I told them that I would never forget this experience and that I would try to make dhokla at home and share it with my friends and family.

I hope you enjoyed reading this blog post, and that you learned something new about the Gujarati and Memon cuisine and culture. If you ever get a chance to visit Karachi, I highly recommend that you try dhokla and other Memoni dishes and that you interact with the Memon community. You will not regret it. And if you want to learn more about the Memons, you can check out these websites: WMO and IMO.

Now to the fun part

Dhokla is made from a fermented batter of rice and chickpeas, or sometimes other pulses, that is steamed and cut into pieces. It is seasoned with mustard seeds, curry leaves, coconut, and green chilies, and served with mint chutney. The fermentation process is a scientific phenomenon that involves the growth of microorganisms that break down the carbohydrates and proteins in the batter, producing acids and gases that give dhokla its sour taste and spongy texture. Fermentation also increases the nutritional value and digestibility of the food, as well as its shelf life

Dhokla can also be seen as a sociological symbol, as it represents the social interactions and meanings that people create and share through food. Dhokla can be eaten as a breakfast, a snack, or a side dish, and can be enjoyed by people of different ages, genders, and classes Dhokla can also be a medium of communication and expression, as people use it to convey their emotions, preferences, and identities. For instance, some people may add sugar or sugar syrup to their dhokla, while others may not, depending on their taste and cultural background Dhokla can also be a source of conflict and power, as different groups may claim ownership or authenticity over the dish, or use it to assert their status or influence.

Finally, dhokla is a historical artifact, as it reflects the history and evolution of the people who make and consume it. Dhokla has a long history that dates back to at least the 11th century, when its precursor, dukkia, was mentioned in a Jain text. The word dhokla first appeared in a Gujarati work in the 16th century Dhokla has undergone various changes and adaptations over time, as different regions, communities, and ingredients have influenced its preparation and presentation Dhokla has also traveled across borders and oceans, as the Memons and other migrants have brought it to Pakistan and other countries, where it has become a part of the local cuisine and culture.

In essence, "Dhokla Chronicles" is more than a culinary tale; it is an exploration of the interconnectedness of food, culture, and human stories. As we savor the softness of dhokla, let us remember that every bite carries the weight of history, the harmony of diverse flavors, and the shared experiences that unite us across borders.

Peace Out